Tortuga Tour Day 37: Fort Jefferson

5/26/21

Destination today is to revisit Fort Jefferson and then go snorkeling.  It is our last day here, so we must make the best use of our time.

It was another rocky night on Betty Lou.  The rocking and the water slapping the sides and underside of Betty Lou challenged the Admiral’s sleep.  It was not so much uncomfortable, just more intense than the previous night.  It was also a full moon so that may have contributed as well.  We were however treated and blessed with sunset at the stern and the full moon at the bow.  These events together out in the middle of the Gulf waters exhibit such splendor you very rarely, if ever, experience when you are on land where the landscape is crowded with buildings, other manmade structures, and artificial lights.

[It’s hard to stop taking sunrise and sunset pictures when they are so spectacular; see the previous post for last night’s sunset. Today’s sunset pictures are at the bottom of this post.]

We ate a leisurely breakfast and spent some time in good conversation.  It’s a privilege to have the time to just sit and talk.

Back to Fort Jefferson

There were a few things to do to get ready for the ride over to the fort.  We packed water, snacks, sunscreen, phones, wallet, first aid kit and life jackets.  The Captain had to put gas in the tank for the dinghy.  While Adriane and I were watching and waiting, we spotted a very large shape under the dinghy.  It was a large grouper relaxing in the shade under our boat.  I had read they get very large but was still shocked to see a fish that looked nearly as big as the Captain.

We timed our departure to Garden Key and the fort perfectly.  The ferry from Key West was arriving at the same time we were making our way to the dinghy dock.  The ferry, when it is docked, is opened to other boaters who might want to use the facilities or purchase a drink.

Much to our dismay the dinghy dock was full and there were others waiting to get in ahead of us.

We had no choice but to use Plan B – pull up on the beach.  Remember yesterday?  We lucked out.  The waves weren’t as intense, and a young man offered to help.  There just happened to be a post right there we could tie to.  The Captain wasn’t sure that things were as secure as he wanted, but a few adjustments and we moved on to touring. 

We joined a group from the ferry who had a guide that had come with the ferry.  He was enthusiastic, well informed, and very entertaining.  I gave some information yesterday much of which he presented today but expanded on and added to.  Fort Jefferson is the largest all-masonry fort in the US.  It is massive!  There were so many obstacles to building such an enormous structure on a remote island 70 miles from Key West.  There was no fresh water.  Building materials had to be brought by ships – some coming from as far away as Brewer, Maine – think 1800s.  Climate was a challenge.  Waste treatment was a huge problem!  I won’t go into the details he gave.  Many ships never made it!  The list goes on and on.  I do suggest you Google Fort Jefferson on Garden Key in Florida.

The tour ended just before noon and we were ready to return to Betty Lou.  Fred had periodically checked on the dinghy and noted that getting it back in the water was going to be a challenge.  He also informed me and Adriane that we would need to get in the water to do this.  The Admiral was not mentally prepared for this.  Let me describe what this meant.  Between the dinghy and the water was about six feet of seaweed mixed with mud and some trash and at least six to eight inches deep.  I had on long pants, socks, and sandals.  The Captain had sneakers and socks.  Adriane had on sandals.  We weren’t about to take shoes off.  I did roll up my pants.  Deep breath: I have no choice; Let’s do this!

First Adriane and Fred had to clean all the grass and seaweed from the back part of the dinghy.  Next was push and pull to move the dinghy down into the water – all 500 pounds.  Remember yesterday?  It didn’t budge!  Now what?  The Captain decides we need to turn it sideways instead.  This was working better, but we were still struggling!  Another nice young man offered assistance.  We got it far enough out that it was at least floating.  We have oars in case of emergencies.  Fred handed Adriane and me the oars and after he got in, at his instructions, we rowed until the dinghy was deep enough to put the motor down into the water.  What a mess!  We made it back to Betty Lou with no more issues and tied up.

The Captain is very meticulous about Betty Lou and the dinghy.  This is a good thing!  The Admiral knew what would happen next.  The dinghy was a mess with muddy, grassy water to be pumped out.  The poor small sump pump was overwhelmed and clogged up.  Tools were needed as well as a 4-cup measuring cup and a paper cup to bail out until the Captain could unclog the pump.  Adriane made lunch while I handed things to Fred.  He worked for a good solid hour in an awkward position (boat yoga) and finally the water flowed!  He rinsed with clean salt water and declared success.  I am so glad he is my Captain!

We rested some after lunch.  We still wanted to go snorkeling.  The original plan had been to snorkel at Loggerhead Key yesterday.  There was a reef closer to Betty Lou and we could anchor the dinghy in the clear water.  Once more we bagged what we needed, dressed appropriately, and motored to the reef in the dingy.  We tested the depth, anchored in a good spot, and got into the water (not over my head).  It was not the same as snorkeling in the Bahamas where there was so much more to see, but it was still worth the effort.  Adriane and Fred ventured further because they were swimming with the gear.  I stayed in my comfort zone and walked, putting goggles on to see.  I did see some coral and fish, and there are deeper and more sheltered places in the park area where the coral is much more vibrant.  We stayed about 30 minutes and then returned to Betty Lou.

Tomorrow we would be leaving which meant hoisting the dinghy back onto the flybridge.  It is always more challenging when there is a stiff breeze blowing, but we were once again successful and have the pictures to prove it, thanks to our great cruise director!

Now it was time to make necessary preparations for departing in the morning.  I am just going to give you all the list which was mostly cleaning and some left to the morning:

• Deal with all the wet, salty, and sandy items – shoes, swimsuits, towels, snorkeling gear.
• Vacuum the cabin area to get up the sand, hair, and other debris.
• Wash the dinghy (It was dirty!!!).
• Cockpit rinse for Admiral and Cruise Director
• Cockpit shower for the Captain.
• Prepare dinner.
• WHEW!

So many moments while we have been here, we have marveled at this experience!  We weren’t even sure for several days if we would be able to make the voyage.  We did, and it’s been amazing!!  What an extraordinary privilege!!!  Our only regret is that all of you could not be here with us.  Even though we were not able to explore Loggerhead Key, this has been a once in a lifetime opportunity.  We will have incredible memories for the rest of our years.  Thank you, God,!

Captain’s Comments

The story of Fort Jefferson is amazing.  To have never fired a shot in battle, and yet to have had such a profound effect on the history of this country is a reminder that sometimes the most important events are found in the details.  It also shows how tenuous the course of history can be.

Experience should teach us that doing things the first time is easier under good conditions.  Unfortunately, I had never disassembled the dinghy bilge pump before.  Doing it in the chop while tied to the back of Betty Lou, with 6” of muddy water and seaweed between me and the pump, did not qualify as a good condition.  But it got done.  And I invented a new boat yoga position. 

The most significant event today was getting the Admiral in the water (with her goggles).  We were basically swimming on a 4’ deep sand bar.  There wasn’t a lot of coral, but we appreciated what we found, along with the (little) fish using it as home. 

Peace  fks

Our last night, and last sunset, in the Dry Tortugas begs for one more sunset picture. As you might have noticed, we have a hard time stopping at one.