Chesapeake Chase Day 16: Alligator River

June 27, 2022

Today’s destination was an anchorage just before entering Albemarle Sound [on the Alligator River].  We planned to go about 70 miles (all day in Betty Lou) since our friend Judy would be joining us in Virginia near Norfolk on June 29 or 30.  There were no places along the 70 miles that we had planned to visit.  It’s an isolated stretch of coastline, so the plan made sense.

We were underway before 8:00 AM.  Our route once off Goose Island Creek was onto the Pamlico River, then to the Pungo River which took us to the Pungo River-Alligator River Canal, and finally to the Alligator River.  There was hardly any other boat traffic the whole day.

This morning was a first for me.  Fred had some things he wanted and needed to do after he had taken in the anchor.  I usually turn the helm over to him as soon as the anchor is up, and all is secure.  This time, I drove for a good 40 minutes before he finally took the helm.  During that time, he kindly brought me coffee.  We are a great team!  Since I seemed to be doing fine, I suggested he also eat breakfast.  I felt comfortable for a change, and we generally eat at the pilot house table when underway.  He was close by.

When we entered the canal, he asked me to take the helm again.  It was straight down the center for most of the 21 miles, watching the water depth, and being aware of any other boats, or obstructions.  I was at the helm for 10 miles – about an hour and a half in Betty Lou. 

There were a few houses at the beginning, and then there was nothing but trees on both sides and some gulls flying and diving for breakfast.  One small boat passed me and towards the end of the 10 miles, another bigger boat was coming towards me.  There was plenty of room for both of us.  I slowed down making a small adjustment in my direction, and all was as it should be.  My slowing down did wake Fred up, and now it was time for lunch.  I did take over one more time so he could eat his lunch, but we were still on the canal.

Once we turned onto the Alligator River, things changed.  The river is wide but not very deep.  When the wind picked up, it created more chop.  There wasn’t much to see and no visible signs of human activity.  The whole area just seemed so desolate.  It was a strange feeling. 

By late afternoon we were getting close to our anchorage.  There was a very long, low, swing bridge across the river.  We called for an opening, and this time it was a bridge that opened on demand instead of on the hour or half hour.  Once past the bridge and heading to the anchorage the water seemed rougher.  The waves were hitting us sideways which can be uncomfortable.  Add to that a whole lot of crab pot buoys bobbing up and down which we had to avoid hitting.  Fortunately, this didn’t last long, and we were able to get to the anchorage where the water was calmer.  We were the only boat there which also felt a bit strange.

Our evening was as routine as nights on a boat can be.  After looking at the plans for tomorrow, we knew it would be another early morning.  The last opening for the lock at the entrance of the Dismal Swamp Canal was at 3:30 PM.  The visitor center for the Dismal Swamp State Park was our destination.  They offered free docks (no amenities except restrooms and water) to boaters, and we wanted to visit.  The history of the canal begins pre–Civil War.

Aside:  Those of you who followed us last year may remember the nights we had all the windows, hatches, and portholes open for air flow and then the rains came – always the wee hours of the morning.  Yes, it rained. Yes, everything was open.  Yes, it was the wee hours of the morning.

Captain’s Comments:

After the extra excitement yesterday evening (and work), we planned an easy, but long, day today. 

So we got up sort of early (~0630), did our engine checks (including checking that the forward bilge was dry—it was), started the engine, made coffee, pulled the anchor and got under way.  It was cool enough that we didn’t need AC, so we enjoyed the breeze blowing in.

The Admiral took us across the Pamlico River before being relieved by the Captain to take us up the Pungo River.  At the head of the Pungo River, we entered the Pungo River-Alligator River Canal.  This 21-mile canal, built in the 1950’s, has one turn of about 10 degrees in the middle.  The Admiral again took the helm for the first 10 miles while the Captain napped.  No worries.

We didn’t find a lot of history for this version of the canal, but this canal superseded three previous canals.  The first of these, The Fairfield Canal, started in 1872, connected the headwaters of the Alligator River with Lake Mattamuskeet.  Built to “improve the land” (drain the swamp) and to provide transportation, it was heralded as the only navigable canal in NC at the time, and had scheduled steamboat service (from Elizabeth City) three times per week.

Now the land adjacent to the present-day canal is mostly the Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge.  Sometimes our concept of “improve” evolves.

Distress Call at the Bridge

While we were waiting for a swing bridge to open at the north end of the Alligator River, we heard a call for help over the VHF. A boat on the north side of the bridge had received a request for help from a man who said his wife was in trouble, paddling a kayak in the waves. They couldn’t help since the kayaker was on the south side of the bridge, so they relayed the message to the Coast Guard.

Since the relay to the Coast Guard occurred over the VHF channel 16 emergency/hailing “party line” we heard it and realized we might be the only boat that could help. We started searching for the kayaker, but soon heard, again on channel 16 in conversation with the Coast Guard, that she had made it into a marsh, making it a land rescue. Out of our capability, so we headed on, but a good example of the value of everyone monitoring channel 16 while at sea. The Coast Guard helped coordinate with a fire/rescue team.

We tucked into a small bay at the mouth of the Alligator River for the night, to get out of the waves coming up the river from the south, and to be ready for a wind shift around to the north overnight.  No bilge work tonight.  Just some sleep.