Tortuga Tour Days 25-28: Anchored in Newfound Harbor
5/14/21
The plan is to stay anchored until Tuesday and then move to Stock Island by Key West where we will meet our daughter in law Adriane. She will be joining us for several days. She is excited and we are excited! Our hope is the three of us will be able to make the voyage to the Dry Tortugas. If the forecast continues for strong winds and high seas, we will instead explore the smaller Keys. We will adapt and enjoy whatever is feasible!
This morning was relaxed. The Captain adjusted the port side door which wasn’t latching properly. The Captain really must be able to fix most everything on the boat, especially when you are away from shore. He sealed some leaking windows. This was also a good time to uncover the dinghy, get the registration decals on, check the motor, and put fuel in. The Admiral worked on the log and we both did some reading.
After lunch we were ready to put the dinghy in the water and go explore. We store the dinghy on the flybridge, the only space big enough. This dinghy weighs about 500 pounds, so we have a davit which we hook it onto when we want to lower the boat into the water. This is another two-person job. There is a bridle which attaches to the dinghy and the davit line, and a power control that raises and lowers the davit line. We must review every time which direction of the switch raises and which lowers. The Admiral, who is directionally impaired, has been known to push the switch in the wrong direction. I control the switch and watch to make sure the dinghy clears the railing. He controls the swing of the dinghy to make sure it doesn’t hit anything going down. There are two lines, stern and bow, to hold on to as it lowers. He needs these lines when he goes down to the cockpit to tie the dinghy to the boat while he unhooks the bridle. We succeeded without any mishaps!
When we take a dinghy ride, we also take life jackets, a first aid kit, water, sunscreen, handheld radio, phones, boat key and identification. The Captain is big on safety and the Admiral greatly appreciates his insistence. We even have two cute dinghy fenders and an anchor.
We were now ready to go explore. A portion of Route 1 which connects the Keys using multiple bridges, is right near our anchorage. We headed in that direction and went under one bridge. The water beyond our anchorage is shallow so you can see the bottom which is sandy with patches of sea grass. I was able to see what I think were horseshoe crabs, but I’m not certain. On shore is the usual residential development, noticeably more moderate and most houses on concrete stilts. We didn’t have to go very far before most of the shore was undeveloped with mostly mangrove trees. There were some smaller uninhabited islands, but the water was too shallow even for the dinghy, so we turned around. The guidebook said we could go near the east side of a second bridge on Big Pine Key where we could tie up on a mangrove and walk to a Winn Dixie. We could not find any spot we felt comfortable with, so we went down some canals to see if there was something better. There was a man working on one of his boats (Towboat US) who offered us a space on his dock. He also pointed at a marina on the end of the canal that might let us tie up. They told us we could for a $5 fee which would be fine. We only wanted to know in case there was a need.
There is plenty more exploring to do, but we have three more days, so we returned to Betty Lou. We prepared a simple dinner, followed by showers in the cockpit (not recommended when other boats are around) and after watching a gorgeous sunset, we played a game of Scrabble, the first game in four weeks of being on Betty Lou.
Captain’s comments:
Anchored. For several days. Almost stress-free for the admiral. After doing a few boat chores, I even sat down and started reading a book given to me before we left.
Of course, there is the anchor to watch, which will take on more significance as the winds pick up. We have an all-chain rode, which generally makes for a secure hold on the bottom, and a custom bridle (which I made before we left). A good anchor is one of the most important safety items on a boat—the parking/emergency brake. So far, we’ve stayed put. But I did have to get up in the night to close the hatches when it started to rain.
Peace. Even with the wind blowing. fks
5/15/21
This was another lazy morning – very unusual for us on a Saturday morning in May. For the past twelve years it has been our workday at the HOPE Garden. Many thanks to the gardeners who are carrying on!
Saturday, as most of you know, is also pancake day for the Captain and Admiral. Fresh coffee, homemade pancakes and floating on the water – life doesn’t get much better for the Captain! I made blueberry pancakes this morning.
When we are anchored for this long, we really have to conserve on fresh water. We are not too concerned this time since we have six full cans that we filled for going to the Dry Tortugas where there is no access at all to fresh water. We decided this morning to wash a load of laundry since we had the generator on to charge the batteries. We opted not to dry the clothes in the machine because we didn’t want to run the generator that long. As you will see from the picture, there was a threat earlier in the morning of a thunderstorm, but that went elsewhere. This meant we could hang our clothes out in the cockpit to dry, and yes, we came prepared with clothespins and line. I love the smell of air-dried clothes. The rest of the morning we spent reading and relaxing.
Once we finished lunch, it was time for another dinghy ride. The wind was stronger today, but being in a more protected area, the waves were not bad. When we first came into the anchorage, we had noted a small uninhabited island with a tiny beach that seemed to be a popular site for small boats to anchor and the folks on board could then swim, get on the island, or just sit and relax in their boats. We headed in that direction. The dinghy motor had to work a bit harder today, but we made it.
We were quickly reminded what day it was. Whole families were out for the day. We found a spot where we too could anchor. Did we think about wearing bathing suits? Oops! No problem. The water was calling to us. Fred at least had on shorts, but I had on very lightweight long pants and lightweight long sleeve shirt (sun protection). Fred ventured in first. The water was mid-chest on him. He helped me in and held on to me until we reached shallower water. I must admit it was refreshing.
We didn’t stay long because the area was getting crowded with small boats. The trick now was getting back into the dinghy. It must have been quite the entertainment to anyone watching. Think about a dinghy floating in about 4 feet of water and a five-foot person trying to hoist up and over. There was a little ladder, but not too helpful. Thank goodness for the Captain and two handle holds. It would have been a good video for funniest! We made it. From there Fred wanted to check out a possible snorkeling sight. It was too far, especially under the current windy conditions. We headed back.
The motor now seemed to be having some issues with stalling, so Fred speeded up some. Now going in the opposite direction, the wind was blowing the water into the dinghy. So much for drying off in the wind. We arrived safely and soaked. Something we are always careful about is not getting salt water inside the boat, and if we do, we clean it up immediately. Salt water is corrosive and especially to boat machinery and metals on a boat like ours. Cockpit showers again. It was all worth it – another enjoyable afternoon.
The wind continued to pick up during the evening. We weren’t worried, but it took a while to get used to the different noises. We had a wonderful dinner of grilled chicken, veggies and rice, cleaned up, played a game and turned in. The Captain did get up a few times to check the anchor, but all was well.
Captain’s Comments:
Interesting stop at the party beach. Water felt great. Quite a few people and boats made for a flash mob in the middle of the bay. People were friendly, tolerant and helpful—just enjoying the day. A dog was playing on the little bit of sand that poked up out of the water. Watched a man smoking a cigarette chest deep. A “party” barge seemed to be permanently moored near the beach; not sure if/what they were selling. We all got along.
When we sold our previous boat, it was in Florida. We drove the car down from Rock Hill to collect our personal items prior to the sale—there were a lot of personal items. But because of space in the car, we couldn’t take everything. It’s amazing how much stuff fits/accumulates on a boat. The new owner got a good deal. The Admiral has reminded me on several occasions while outfitting our new Betty Lou that we left what we needed on the old Betty Lou. One of the items on our list was clothes pins. It took several tries before we finally found them—the day before we left on this trip—at Walmart. It was good to put them to use.
The Admiral won at gin, the Captain having won at scrabble the previous evening. No TV on the boat!
Last night the wind was blowing about 18 knots, with thunderstorms to our north. Lying in bed it took a while to get used to the sound of the anchor bridle stretching first one way then the other as the boat swung in the wind. Eventually, the rain started, and after closing a few windows (I had already closed the hatches!), fell asleep to the sound of rain hitting the deck, trusting in Garmin to tell us if the anchor shifted position. And checking it myself a few mores times during the night.
fks
5/16/2021
How many ways can I say another easy morning? The only downside today was not having Wi-Fi to live stream the church service. Otherwise, we enjoyed our leisurely cup of coffee, eggs, and toast – no bacon because we don’t want the lingering smell and the grease. Actually, we don’t have bacon with eggs at home either, for the same reason.
We read, worked on yesterday’s log, and the Captain checked on possible options should the wind and waves not die down enough to get to the Dry Tortugas. It’s always good to have alternate plans. Late morning the Captain needed to change the gas filter on the dinghy motor to see if that was the problem yesterday. Since the dinghy was still in the water, and the water was choppy, he needed the Admiral’s assistance. I do an excellent job at being the “go for”, and of course supervising. Despite the bouncing dinghy, he was successful and even added more gas to the tank.
Following lunch, it was time for a short run. The whole time we have been anchored here, we have watched a ferry go back and forth to Little Palm Island Resort. The Captain has been curious as to where it comes from. We discovered it on a small canal just before the Rt.1 bridge on the left and mystery solved.
We then returned to Betty Lou. The water was calmer than earlier, so we decided it was time to pull the dinghy out of the water and return it to the flybridge. This too requires both of us especially since the wind was still fairly strong. We got the davit in position and again I was in control of the davit remote. I lowered the line low enough so the Captain could attach the line to the bridle. He held onto the stern and bow lines until I had raised the dinghy high enough to grab the lines. Remember the dinghy weighs about 500 pounds. You do not want it to hit the boat or anyone on board. We were guiding it well, but suddenly the davit made a loud popping sound! I can’t really express what went through my mind in that split second other than raw fear. Thank goodness it was brief! We still don’t know what happened, but we finished the process of raising with no more popping. The Captain expertly guided the dinghy over the railing and working together we put it in position over the cradles. This was definitely a thumbs up moment!
We rewarded ourselves with a refreshing rum and coke with lime (light on the rum).
We relaxed some and worked on the travel log until dinner time. Dinner was some mighty fine leftovers and chocolate pudding with whipped cream for dessert. Once we cleaned from the day’s dishes, the Admiral suggested another game, but the Captain suggested sitting in the cockpit and just relaxing and watching the sunset. I am so glad he did! There was a nice breeze and a gentle rocking. We so often get caught up in entertaining ourselves with more material things, we forget what nature has to offer. As the light from the sun disappeared, we began noticing the evening lights – the crescent moon, a twinkling star, then a few more, and the sky was being dotted with many more little lights as we lingered. It was beginning to remind me of a night in my early teens, counseling at a day camp for inner city children. Once every two weeks we camped overnight in Barkhamsted, Connecticut. There were no cabins or tents, so we slept in sleeping bags on open ground. There was no street or building light either – only flashlights. I remember waking about 2:00am and being in awe! I had never seen so many stars! It was a brilliant and memorable light show. I did not wake up at 2:00am last night, and the area was not totally free of manmade light, but the show was still worth watching!
Captain’s Comments:
With the Admiral’s assistance, the fuel filter change on the dinghy outboard went smoothly (even though it was done in the choppy water tied to the stern of Betty Lou). Nice ride afterward. Lifted the dinghy back on board and tied her down like practiced pros. Even flushed the engine and washed off the salt (the Admiral questioned the extravagant use of fresh water).
We’ve observed many sunsets on this trip, but true to our conditioning by our busy culture, we glance, maybe for a minute, express appreciation for the show, and hurry on with our busy lives. Busy lives? We’re at anchor—in the same spot—for five days; how busy can we be? Tonight, we set our folding chairs in the cockpit (our back porch) and sat down about 30 minutes before sunset, then watched the entire show until the western horizon was as dark as the east. We watched the lighted buoys as they automatically turned on, and worried over the three sailboats downstream that didn’t seem to have anchor lights (two eventually came on). The crescent of moon was shockingly bright, and we saw clouds by moonlight. The stars appeared slowly—then in rapid succession. The moonlight reflecting from the waves seemed to dance with new steps. Watching–really watching—and being patient enough to see what can be seen, helps remind us that we, too, are part of God’s world.
No rain in the forecast, so we turned in with the hatch open.
Peace fks
5/17/21
Today is our last full day and night anchored in Newfound Harbor. We didn’t set an alarm for this morning, but we didn’t doddle once breakfast was over. With a few exceptions, we have been somewhat lazy the past several days. Now we need to think about the arrival tomorrow of our first guest on this trip.
The Captain listed off his set of chores. I informed him of what I needed to do, and we got busy. My first job was to clear our overflow items out of the guest stateroom – the stuff we claimed we needed but didn’t know where to stow. To do this meant finding possible other places to reorganize so everything fit. Three reorganized closets (small) and several drawers later, there was a clear space for Adriane. Clear and clean are two different concepts. Fortunately, the rooms are small. There is a full-size bed in the guest stateroom tucked into a kind of alcove up against the wall on the right and a shorter length of wall on the left. It is very cozy and comfortable. Putting a fitted sheet on the mattress however requires what we call boat yoga. I can almost teach the class. Sheets on, room clean, drawer and closet space available and on to the next job. Before I quit, two more cupboards in the galley and salon were reorganized, the guest head cleaned and towels out, the salon, pilot house and galley vacuumed, and only one or two quick jobs left (tomorrow).
The Captain will explain his jobs in his comments. They all took place in the engine room and machinery space. I did assist with one of his jobs because two people are more efficient. I will add that Betty Lou is 90% shipshape and the rest will happen tomorrow.
Today has been windier. The Captain clocked 21 knots at one point. Tomorrow will be better and we will pull up anchor early while the wind is calmer. We are grateful for this lovely, sheltered anchorage.
Captain’s Comments:
After 4 weeks, the various (5 total) seawater strainers on Betty Lou needed cleaning, mostly due to being anchored in this shallow harbor with an abundance of grass growing on the sandy bottom. Not my favorite chore, but better than trying to put sheets on the guest stateroom berth. While I had my bucket out, I took the opportunity to clean the engine room and mechanical room decks (dust and pollen accumulate as the engines draw in combustion air). Also, taking my cue from the Admiral, I reorganized to make a little better use of the storage space (including finding space to stow the blankets that we definitely don’t need in this weather). It turns out that our original plan for storage of trash and recyclables wasn’t big enough; boating encourages flexibility and ingenuity.
Water is our limiting resource for how long we can stay out. After 5 days, we’re down to about ¼ tank of the built-in 200 gallon supply (he haven’t touched the extra 42 gallons in portable storage). We’ve been pretty loose with water usage, as mentioned previously: 4 cockpit showers, 1 load of laundry and 1 dinghy wash). Seven days on the built-in supply is probably the most we should expect (a reverse osmosis water maker is a potential future project). We’ve barely hit ¼ full on our holding tank, so that isn’t limiting, and fuel is definitely not an issue. We still have plenty of food, though fresh vegetables and fruit will need to be procured when we hit port. The rum is holding up, but no ice cream.
We’re looking forward to greeting Adriane aboard tomorrow at Stock Island, after what looks likely to be a “sporty” ride in the morning.
Peace fks