Chesapeake Chase Days 45-46: Storms on way to Belhaven
July 26, 2022: The Coinjock Alternative
We had more distance to go today for an anchorage on the way to our eventual stop in Belhaven, so we were up early enough to take advantage of the grocery store close by. We didn’t know when we would have another opportunity. There were thunderstorms predicted for later in the afternoon, and we wanted to be somewhere protected before the storms came.
We were underway by 10:45 AM. We did not beat the first storm, and it was intense. The worst part is not being able to see what’s ahead! Fred was working hard against the wind to keep us on course, and I was on the lookout for other boats and markers. It really saps your energy when you must be so focused.
We made it through the storm, but the forecast indicated more to come. We were coming close to Coinjock Marina which we had thought about and discussed earlier as a possibility, but we had settled on an anchorage further south because it was closer to tomorrow’s destination. As we approached the marina, the choice came up again. This time, (quickly and mostly me), we chose the marina. It was very small and only had a face dock, but we had help with our lines, electricity, a bath house, and that’s all we needed. We had a restful, stress-free evening.
Captain’s Comments: A boat is in a separate world
This morning we walked to the grocery store in Chesapeake, VA. Tied up at the boatyard along the canal, we felt we were as far away from civilization as usual on the boat. But after walking just a few blocks, we heard the freeway. A few more blocks dumped us out in a typical busy metropolitan area shopping mall. We took advantage of the Panera’s bakery for breakfast, then shopped at the Krogers. Traveling for half the day yesterday didn’t even start to get us out of Norfolk.
We loaded our groceries in our backpacks and walked back to our separate world.
Our luck with bridges yesterday didn’t hold over to today. We missed a bridge opening a few miles after leaving the marina (sorry— “boatyard”) and waited about 15 minutes for the next opening. The next bridge was about 35 minutes further down the canal, and we missed it by about 5 minutes.
Storm
After leaving the canal, we were in Currituck Sound traveling down a narrow cut. The sound was wide and shallow other than where it had been dredged for the channel. The spoil was piled next to the channel (below water level), with submerged piling to try to prevent erosion. Not a problem if you can see where you are going.
The forecast had warned of thunderstorms with strong winds, and they caught us while in the sound. I estimate 25-30 knots of wind, perpendicular to the channel. The rain reduced visibility to about 50’, slightly more than one boat length. To avoid being blown out of the channel into the spoil area, I had to turn into the wind, perpendicular to our travel direction. With the wind rapidly shifting, it felt like I imagine being caught in an avalanche might feel. Finding the buoy we were expecting to see, but not where we expected to see it, emphasized our loss of sense of direction. Nevertheless, it helped us get back on course as the front passed.
When the next front came through, I used the autopilot and that actually worked pretty well.
Helmsman doesn’t put magnetic compasses on their boats as standard equipment, judging, reasonably, that most operators use and rely on their electronic instrumentation. I was aware of this when we bought Betty Lou and elected not to add one as an option. In hindsight, I realize that 50 years of relying on seeing a magnetic compass in front of me while at the helm, even if I’m not actively steering to it, contributes to a directional awareness that is useful when all other directional cues vanish. Might need to reconsider…
After the storms, it was still hot, and more storms were in the forecast, so we decided to stop early at Coinjock Marina where we could have electricity—and AC.
Coinjock Marina is almost exclusively for transients. They have a long, fixed face dock along the canal. A restaurant is on site—menu looked reasonable, but we ate on the boat. Showers were adequate. They just completed building a new ship’s store/marina office. Interestingly, it included a bar serving draft beer. Some boaters complain that they are pricey–taking advantage of their location midway along the canal. But we sure appreciated the AC.
July 27, 2022: Belhaven
This morning we needed to leave Coinjock early. Having stopped short yesterday, we had a long way to go and part of it involved crossing Albemarle Sound again. Our destination today was Belhaven Marina in North Carolina. We left about 8:15 AM. It was easy going when we first started.
At one point, a faster and bigger boat named Destiny passed us. They had been docked behind us at Coinjock Marina. We had also been in Onancock together and they were pulling into Waterside Marina as we were leaving. We had spoken several times with the couple on the boat. They were also heading to Belhaven. After they got into Albemarle Sound, they hailed us on the radio to let us know the waves in the sound were 3 to 4 feet – not what we wanted to hear!
Indeed, Albemarle Sound was true to its reputation, but it would only take somewhere between two and three hours to make the crossing. I still do not care for the pounding we experience in rough water, but I am not fearful the way I used to be. It’s the discomfort that is wearing and bothersome.
This time going through the Alligator River, we did see a few boats, but it was still desolate. Finally, after 11 hours and 77 miles on the water, we arrived at the Belhaven Marina. We were weary, hungry, and in need of showers and AC.
This was another small marina and even though we couldn’t reach anyone on VHS, we did reach someone by phone. He was at the dock to meet us and help with lines. We learned that he was the owner, and he did everything. He helped us hook up to the electricity, gave us the information we needed about the marina, and gave us the names of the two restaurants that were open. He even offered to drive us into town. We opted to walk after being on the boat all day. Once we had the AC going, we did walk.
I don’t think the restaurant was more than a quarter mile. We didn’t get there any too soon either. The kitchen was getting ready to shut down. Belhaven is small and there wasn’t much to see. In 2020, the population was 1,239. It’s known for fishing and water views.
The marina was different from any we had stayed at yet. For less than $100 a night, he offered free laundry, showers with clean towels, soap, and shampoo, unique décor everywhere, lawn games, outdoor grill, several areas to sit and enjoy the outdoors, and free rides. If you needed fuel or pump out, he brought the hoses right to your boat. I was impressed by the thought, time, energy, details, and character he had invested in his marina. The only issue I had was getting on and off the boat onto the fixed dock; a challenge for short legs, but I did it!
It was late when we returned from dinner. When your body tells you it’s time to quit, it’s best to listen. We did!
Captain’s Comments:
After yesterday’s storm, we slept in—a little. The AC was nice. But by 0700 we were up using the head on shore, toasting left over pancakes, making coffee, doing engine checks and disconnecting the shore power.
The weather was slightly cooler, but the wind had stayed strong overnight out of the SW, promising a rough crossing of Albemarle Sound. We went for simplicity and kept the generator (and AC) off to start the day. Departure from the Coinjock marina was easy.
We had about 16 miles to go down the rest of the Coinjock Canal and then the North River to reach Albemarle Sound. Destiny, a faster boat that was docked next to us last night, and previously in Norfolk and Onancock, passed us shortly after we started. We expected to see them again at Belhaven. A few northbound pleasure vessels and two barges passed us, while the wind and waves gradually picked up as we headed south.
Albemarle Sound did not disappoint. Destiny called back to warn us, but we were committed. As we entered the sound, we were greeted with closely spaced 4’ waves. We took an angle and set a speed that was reasonably comfortable, but we also wanted to get to the other side (about 11 nautical miles).
The waves did flatten out (a little) as we reached the other (lee) side of the sound, but then we had to travel down Alligator River for another 20 miles—not aligned with the wind, but wide enough, about 3-4 miles, that the wind still kicked up some waves.
Entering the Alligator River, we needed the Alligator River swing bridge to open for us. From 3 miles out I saw that it was already open and resigned myself to waiting for the next opening, but then the bridge tender radioed to us and said that if we hurried, he would hold the bridge open for us. Surprised, I gladly sped up as much as I could. However, after about 5 minutes, the bridge started to close. I hailed the bridge tender and he apologized. He had confused us for a different boat. But he did short cycle the bridge opening for us after he cleared the traffic waiting on the bridge.
The waves and wind meant spray—which meant we couldn’t have all the windows open, so it was hot. Finally reaching the canal at the head of Alligator River meant we could open back up and have the breeze.
Generally, I like to have as much window open as possible while traveling in a boat. Closed windows seem to create an extra barrier to appreciating the environment as we pass by. The flybridge is best, but old bodies appreciate being out of the sun, so we favor the pilothouse. Cool weather travel leads to fewer windows open, of course, but this is the first trip where I’ve really wanted to have AC on while under way.
We crossed our wake (our previous track) as we entered the Alligator River and are now retracing previously traveled waters. A benefit, though, is that we’ll stop at some places we skipped past on our way north—this evening, for example, we’ll stop at Belhaven.
The Belhaven Marina was small, but lovingly cared for. The one person at the marina (dockmaster, dockhand, maintenance person, and owner?) was young, competent, and pleasant. Even though the wind was still blowing, and the marina entrance was narrow, there was enough protection to allow us to turn 180 degrees for a starboard side tie.
The fixed docks already had fenders hung at strategic locations, and cleats on the pilings that made for an easy tie up. The dock had hinged boards at intervals that lifted to allow the shore power cables to be routed under the dock to avoid tripping hazards. The showers were supplied with towels, bathmats, shampoo, and soap. And homey decorations. Nice.
We asked about dinner choices—two places were open in town. The dockmaster offered to drive us in a golf cart, but we needed to walk. We found The Tavern at Jack’s Neck first and only saw outdoor seating; desiring AC, we kept looking for the other restaurant and didn’t find it. As we walked back on the next street we saw that Jack’s had an indoor venue in front, so we hurried in—the kitchen was closing in 20 minutes.
We ordered pizza and it was fabulous. The story goes that they make their own dough. Actually, one woman makes the dough and the pizza. She had left town for a while, and the pizza went down hill, but several weeks ago she returned, was rehired, and—pizza perfection. Two other tables were occupied inside. We struck up a conversation with a couple that was also having pizza (actually, he struck up the conversation—somehow, he knew we weren’t locals). Before pizza was finished, we pretty much had his life story.
All that drama in a town that appeared pretty dead while standing in the middle of the main intersection with no cars in sight and nearly every storefront boarded up.
But if the wind was right, we’d stop in again for the showers and pizza.
